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Wherever you are on Maui, you will encounter the richness of culture and
tradition. Centuries-old heiau in the open air, 19th-century storefronts,
ancient churches,
restored archaeological sites – Maui’s cultural treasures are abundant
and accessible.
But it’s the museums that are the most faithful protectors of Maui’s
cultural heritage. One good place to start is Lahaina Town, Maui’s National
Historic Landmark, crammed with living history. You might say that the town
itself is the biggest and most famous museum in Hawai‘i. It was the capital
of the Hawaiian Islands during the Monarchy (1795-1843), and for many hundreds
of years earlier, it was the playground of choice for Hawaiian kings and aristocracy.
When the whalers arrived in Lahaina, it became the center of the Pacific whaling
industry, much to the chagrin of the disapproving missionaries.
After whaling died out in the 1860s, Lahaina turned into a sleepy sugar plantation
town, only to be awakened once more by the modern boom in tourism.
Today Lahaina’s 30 historic sites provide visitors with a compelling
tapestry of Maui’s past. Among the highlights are the Courthouse, the
Fort, the Prison, the Pioneer Inn, the Hongwanji Temple, Hale Pa‘i, the
Wo Hing Temple, and the Baldwin Home Museum.
The Hale Pa‘i – literally, “House of Printing” – dates
to the mid-1830s. It was there that the first newspaper in the state of Hawai‘i
was published and the way was paved for the establishment of Hawaiian as a
written language. Today it houses a working replica of its original press and
intriguing exhibits of early printing.
In 1912, the Wo Hing Temple was a “Tong House,” run by the Tong
Society, which provided aid and comfort to Chinese immigrants. It is considered
to be the finest surviving Tong House in Hawai‘i, a meticulously restored
museum. There’s also a quaint old cookhouse next to the temple that shows
films of Hawai‘i made in 1898 and 1906 by none other than Thomas Edison.
Beneath the rough-hewn ceiling beams of the Baldwin Home Museum are the wonderfully
preserved memorabilia of the Rev. Dwight Baldwin and his family. In this, the
oldest building in Lahaina, the work of the reverend is revealed in sometimes-frightening
detail. He was a medical missionary, and one look at his professional tools
gives one a keener appreciation of the origin of the term “sawbones.” But
the gentler side of missionary life is also on display – the Baldwins’ grand
piano, the four-poster bed made of Hawaiian koa wood, the family’s fragile
china ware, and paintings and portraits that bring to life another time and
culture.
The Bailey House Museum in Wailuku is another “must-see” Maui museum.
Operated by the Maui Historical Society, the museum, the 1850 home of a missionary
family, is dedicated to both pre-contact Hawaiian artifacts (the best and most
complete collection on Maui), and post-contact missionary life. The house itself
is also noteworthy, with heavy sandalwood beams in the ceiling and stonewalls
that are nearly two feet thick. The grounds also include a flourishing tropical
garden, an authentic Hawaiian outrigger canoe, and a seminary building.
A few minutes away by car from Bailey House, set in the lush ‘Iao Valley,
the Kepaniwai Park is an outdoor museum that educates visitors about Maui’s
cultural heritage. The charming, pastoral setting is enhanced by oriental gardens,
arched bridges, a taro patch, and the ‘Iao Stream gurgling in the background.
In strolling through the grounds, you’ll discover a Portuguese villa,
a New England “salt box” with white picket fence, a Hawaiian grass
house, and a type of bamboo house popular among the early Filipino immigrants.
The park is the site of a decisive battle in which Kamehameha I defeated the
army of a Maui chief in 1790.
Pu‘unene, near Kahului, is home of the Alexander & Baldwin Sugar
Museum. Its displays illuminate the history of Maui’s sugar industry
and plantation era. Photographs and documents show the quality of life in the
cane fields, how the workers lived on the plantations, and the workings of
a sugar mill as displayed in a model. Across the street is the active, authentic
version, the real thing, showing how the cane is processed. The exhibits give
a glimpse into a once-thriving industry that left its mark on Hawai‘i,
and then declined. While the rest of Hawai‘i‘s sugar industry has
shut down, the industry on Maui has displayed a remarkable resilience in its
struggles to survive.
With its roots firmly planted in Native Hawaiian values, east Maui’s
Hana is a living example of the Hawaiian cultural resurgence. Intimate, true
and endearing, the Hana Cultural Center is the town’s official repository
of artifacts. The center’s modest size and scale allow you to get close
to the stone tools, hand-stitched quilts, photographs, wood crafts, and old
Hawaiian games that residents have preserved through the years.
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